1. What exactly is a juke joint? 

From an essay by my wife, Dana Lise Shavin:

The history and social significance of the juke joints are intertwined with the history of the blues movement that grew out of the oppression of blacks in the early 1900’s. The original jukes (or “jooks,” as they were sometimes spelled) were sharecroppers’ shacks turned nightclubs on the weekends. It was there that black men and women were free to gather, drink, and dance, and to hear local entertainers who traveled from plantation to plantation bringing their own personal style of music with them. That music was the personal, repetitive, soulful story of hardship, inequity, and sorrow. It was the social climate of the Delta that provided the early fertile ground for the movement to put down roots. 

With the Great Migration, in particular following World Wars I and II, the blues began losing its stronghold in the South even while gaining a new and unprecedented one in the North. The result was the demise of the southern juke joint in its purest form. Today, most of the surviving juke joints of Clarksdale, Mississippi are tucked away on lonely streets or in otherwise abandoned building fronts. Over the past several years, there has been a revival of interest in the blues, with the juke joint festival bringing in a devoted group of national and international music fans who, for a few days each year, pump money and energy into the local Clarksdale economy. But the rest of the year, most of the jukes struggle to hang on, catering to the local population. It was not lost on us that almost all of the juke joints Birney Imes photographed in the early 1980s and 90s are now gone.

Read a longer excerpt from this essay

2. Are you from Mississippi?

No, it is a 7 1/2 hour drive from my house

3. Why the Mississippi Delta? And why primarily in the Clarksdale area?

The Delta is known as the birthplace of the Blues and contributed significantly to Rock and Roll and Country Music. Scores of musicians got their start in Clarksdale and surrounding areas.

I have been taking photos of bars and buildings for a number of years. I had seen Birney Ime's book Juke Joint published in the early 90s (now re-released), which took people inside the juke joints of the Mississippi Delta. I had thought for a couple of years that I would love to re-visit some of these same places, but could not imagine just driving up with my camera and asking if I could photograph their clubs. Enter Robert Birdsong, local historian and tour-guide. Robert introduced me to the first few places and on and off accompanied me on all four trips.

4. Where is the Mississippi Delta? Near New Orleans?

No, actually the Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel downtown Memphis and goes to Catfish Row in Vicksburg, Mississippi.

5. If it is so far north of the mouth of the river, why is it called the Delta?

 There are several stories about this; but I did not name it, I'm just relaying the information.

 6. Did you really go into these places?

Yes. I find it difficult to photograph places from my sofa. Hopefully the technology will develop in the future.

 7. How many places did you go to?

 17 places in all.

 8. What was the response to you in the clubs?

The response ranged from open arms to refusal to talk to me, but most of the owners and patrons welcomed me after they understood what I was doing. Only one club refused.

 9. Why do most of the photographs not have anyone in them?

I wanted the clubs and their atmosphere to be the stars of the photographs. I do have a few photos of the owners and a few patrons, but in most cases the long exposures required made it difficult to capture people.

 10. Doesn't Morgan Freeman have a restaurant or club there?

Actually he, along with his co-owners have a club, Ground Zero Blues Club (http://groundzerobluesclub.com/), which has music 4 nights a week. He also owns a restaurant, Madidi's, ( www.madidires.com ) a few blocks from the club. He lives nearby when not filming.

 11. Where can I read about your project?

 My wife, writer and painter Dana Lise Shavin wrote a brief article "Confessions of a Juke Joint Jew" and a much larger literary essay for later publication in conjunction with the photos.

 12. What are your plans for the photos and project now?

I take a few photo to the art festivals, but the plan for the bulk of the photos and for the writing is publication and exhibits.

 13. Did you photograph anything else while you were there?

I did take a few photographs of old churches, barbershops, etc.; but for the most part, I did not have the time to focus on anything but the clubs.

 14. Are there any places that are not to be missed?

Messenger's Lounge has been open in some capacity since 1918. While not the most famous of the places, it is possibly the oldest juke joint in the Delta. It is understated and, like Red's Lounge, can look a bit intimidating from the outside. Both Messenger's and Reds', however, are open to all and are legendary. While there are a number of places, both are not to be missed.

 15. When is the best time to go?

It depends on what you are looking for. April 18-20 (2008) the annual Juke Joint Festival is THE EVENT with scores of stages inside many of the juke joints and on the streets. Free shuttles around town make things easier to navigate.

There are also other smaller events as well as just normal operating hours on most weekends.

 16. If I want to go, where do you recommend that I start my research?

 A: Cathead Delta Blues and Folk Art, operated by Roger and Jennifer Stolle, is by far the most comprehensive site dedicated to the Blues in the Delta.. Roger and Jennifer loved the area so much, they quit their regular jobs in St Louis to move to Clarksdale several years ago. Their complete story as well as music events, schedules and scores of other information is on their site. Information on their site includes the best places to stay in the area.

B: Robert Birdsong is a local historian and tour guide. Robert was invaluable to me on my project. He also know the entire region and can take you to obscure gravesites of legendary musicians, to juke joints, or customize any tour to suite you.

For tour information, contact
Robert Birdsong
phone: 662-624-6051
email: birdsong@clarksdale.com

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